LETICIA, Amazon Basin, Colombia - 16th August

16th August - Up at 6am and had a morning coffee from Senor Marco down on the street and then off to the airport. Strangely the airport is almost in the middle of the town (out of the walled city) a lot closer than the bus-stop. Checked in and then walked out of the airport across the street for Juice & empanadas at a street stall. Met an old Colombian couple, who were there on holiday and who have lived in New York for the last 40 years. They were pleased to see people wanting to visit Colombia.

Avianca flight to Bogota was on time. The staff had smart uniforms - red hats & ponchos. Got a connecting Aerorepublica flight in Bogota and were in Leticia at 3.00 in the afternoon.

It was very thrilling to fly over the dense green jungle for a while and then to see the silvery Amazon River snaking through in the distance. There was certainly a collective thrill on the flight with all trying to get a glimpse from the air. As we circled over the river and Leticia it certainly looked extremely wide and muddy. This was the dry season and the river was lower (by almost 15 metres) than it was otherwise. Was hard to believe we would be touching down in the Amazon any minute.

The airport was small and very casual. Pictures of native fruit and fish were colourfully painted near the toilets. Security too was casual though not sloppy. Walked out into this hot & humid Amazon region, so remote and isolated. Leticia is the most remote town in Colombia and right at the point where Peru, Brazil and Colombia meet. One can move easily between the Colombian Leticia and Brazilian Tabatinga without realising that you have crossed over. Spanish & Portuguese is spoken by locals on both sides. The only sign of any border are the two flags - Brazilian and Colombian in the middle of the road along the main street.

We first tried for a room at a small hotel called Hotel de la Selva (Hotel of the jungle) but did not quite like the price. We settled for another one called "Yurupary Hotel" (Yurupary is a native Indian ceromony) ,which we did not like either with its bold and gitchy bright sculptures of birds and animals in the corridor/courtyard, one on each room door and the room keys too. However, the low price and airconditioning to beat the heat and humidity were the convincing factors. The ladies at the reception were very mothering and helpful too.

We quickly showered and wandered out to the streets. Leticia was an easy place to walk around but it certainly did feel like the jungle at all. We decided that we should leave the next day and go up river to the National parks or Jungle. Checked out a few jungle tours with some local groups but just could not bear the thought of being part of a "tour group" especially after reading their itineraries....."Pick up at hotel, welcome drink, look at birds, go for lily tour, visit jungle,...........". Didn't like the thought of having others take you places, and to do stuff as a group only when it was "time" to it. This however gave us an idea what the region offered.

Looked for a traditional place for dinner on the street. Rossini had a Colombian "Bandejo Paisa" which was a huge, wholesome meal with grilled meat, sausage, salted pork, rice, broad red beans, avocado and to top it all - a fried egg ........enough for two!! Letay and I tried the local river fish called Piraruca, which looks almost like a prehistoric fish from the dinosaur era - tasted brilliant. Stayed around town for little longer after dinner and then called it a day.